I think I'm allergic to Japan. Seriously, have not stopped sneezing since I got here. It's rude to blow your nose in public so most of the time I just have to walk around with mucus streaming down my face and my mouth hanging open, struggling to breathe. I wonder if this makes me appear either extremely polite or just severely mentally handicapped. I'd be happy with either really.
So yeah, anyway, Tokyo etc. It's alright, I suppose. Here's the view from my bedroom window:
Only joking. That's the view from Starbuck's window in Shibuya centre. You might remember it featured prominently in a scene from that uproarious culture-clash comedy
Lost In Translation? You know the one where Scarlett Johannson is just sort of sitting there, silently watching the world go by? No, not that one. Or that one. No, the other one. The other one again. Never mind. (Dig #1 there. I've written about how much I hated
Lost In Translation before but I expect I'll be giving it a more thorough and sustained kicking - the level of abuse it, quite frankly, deserves - over the coming year). Anyway, Shibuya's about ten minutes from my house; the actual view from my bedroom window is of my next-door neighbour's wall. Apart from the lack of any natural light and the neck-strainingly low ceiling (requiring me to
backwards crab walk Exorcist-style to and from the bathroom) my accommodation's OK. There is a 24-hour Sushi Bar on my doorstep. Which is nice. I've yet to meet any of my housemates though I'm sure they exist (I've seen their shoes. In my mind I'm already friends with the girl who wears the graffitied Vans and we go out for tea and browse second-hand shops for kitsch celebrity collectibles).
Speaking of celebrities, the whole
movie stars shilling for yen is totally true.
Cameron Diaz is selling phones,
Brad Pitt advertises - I think - watches (the ad is pretty confusing) and
Avril Lavigne appears to be the most famous person on the planet. I haven't really seen any Japanese TV yet, except for bits of the news I saw at the airport. To say it was a bit hard to follow is an understatement. The editing appears to be almost completely random, jump-cutting between scenes of armed gangs fighting in the street, some government official eating a hamburger, and a bunch of ostriches. At the end of each item the newsreader chuckles to himself then suddenly deadpans and begins the next item. Also the weather report appears to be presented by a twelve year old girl who bounces around giggling manically and pointing to graphics that look more like
Pokemon characters than meteorological phenomena.
Apart from all that though - and a whole lot of other stuff I didn't mention - Japan's not that different from the rest of the world. It's going to take a lot of getting used to, for sure - simply trying to buy a bath towel this morning became a baffling six-hour ordeal involving numerous train journeys around the city and a brief sojourn in a police station (where the cop on duty gave me a bottle of sake and told me how much he loved U2. Seriously). And, as no doubt tedious as this will be for everyone to read, this blog is probably where I'll be recounting most of my madcap adventures, since nobody here speak-a de Enga-rish-ah. Either that or I'll become some sort of raving drunk, eating bits of dead fish off the street and singing Irish rebel songs to terrified salarymen. Or maybe the
Yakuza will eat me alive. Life's full of surprises.
Here's the warning from under the seat of a Japanese toilet: